After a hiatus filled with studying for the Certified Specialist of Wine exam,(Yay! I passed), European travels, and plenty of memorable bottles along the way, I’m delighted to bring back my Wine of the Week feature!

Each week, I spotlight a wine that has captured my attention—whether for its distinctive character, the story behind it, or simply the pleasure it brings to the glass.

I’m kicking things off with the 2023 Matthiasson Ancient White Wine No. 2, an intriguing Napa Valley wine that draws inspiration from ancient Roman winemaking traditions. Skin-fermented, aged in clay amphora, and made with an unexpected ingredient, it’s a fascinating example of how looking to the past can inspire something wonderfully different today.

Matthiasson Wines

Founded in 2003 by viticulturist Steve Matthiasson and sustainable food advocate Jill Klein Matthiasson, Matthiasson Wines is a small, fiercely independent, family-run winery based in Napa Valley.

Together, Steve and Jill bring decades of agricultural experience and a deep commitment to sustainability. Their philosophy views wine as a natural extension of farming—rooted in organic and regenerative practices and guided by a strong sense of place.

From familiar varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah to lesser-known grapes such as Ribolla Gialla, Refosco, and Schioppettino, Matthiasson crafts wines that emphasize purity, balance, and food-friendliness. Generally moderate in alcohol and expressive in character, their wines reflect a thoughtful, hands-on approach to farming and winemaking, with, as they put it, “no compromises in the vineyard or the winery.”

Ancient Inspiration, Modern Winemaking

Matthiasson’s adventurous spirit is on full display in Ancient White Wine No. 2. Made from Greco, a white grape variety associated with southern Italy’s Campania region and its celebrated Greco di Tufo wines, this is no ordinary Napa Valley white. Its inspiration reaches back nearly 2,000 years to ancient Roman winemaking traditions.

As Matthiasson explains:

“A few years ago, we delved into making a Retsina-style wine based on a 2000 year old recipe from Pliny the Elder, which we called Ancient Wine No. 1. During the research for that wine we discovered that sea salt was commonly used to preserve wine in the Roman era. This lead to the creation of our Ancient White Wine No. 2, a skin-fermented and clay amphora-aged Greco di Tufo to which we added a touch of Jacobsen Salt Co. Trapani Sea Salt.”

It’s a fascinating combination of ancient techniques and modern curiosity. Fermenting the white grapes on their skins extracts additional color, texture, and tannins, giving the wine characteristics more commonly associated with reds. Aging in clay amphora allows gradual oxygen exposure, contributing to the wine’s development and complexity.

And then there’s the sea salt. Inspired by its historical use in preserving wine, Matthiasson adds just a touch, introducing an unexpected element to an already unconventional wine.

The result is a wine that draws on centuries-old practices while offering a distinctly contemporary drinking experience.

2023 Matthiasson Ancient White No. 2

Some wines capture your attention from the very first glance, and this is one of them. With its delicate coppery-orange hue and intriguing combination of fruit, savory, and floral notes, Ancient White Wine No. 2 invites you to slow down and explore what’s in the glass. But it’s the interplay of freshness, texture, and salinity that makes this wine especially compelling.

Tasting Note:

A very pale orange color with a delicate coppery hue. Compelling aromas of dried apricot, white peach, yuzu, honey, saline notes, florals, toasted almond, and spice. Medium-bodied and wonderfully fresh on the palate, with a subtle tannic grip and flavors of dried apricot, white peach, yuzu, and spice, complemented by an appealing saline minerality. Long, lingering finish.

13% ABV | 93 points

Final Thoughts

What I enjoyed most about this wine was how effortlessly it balanced complexity with sheer drinkability. The subtle tannins and savory, saline character added dimension without overwhelming the vibrant fruit and refreshing acidity.

I’ve long considered skin-contact white wines among the most versatile wines at the table, right up there with Riesling, Pinot Noir, and sparkling wines in my book. Their combination of freshness, texture, and sometimes savory character makes them wonderfully adaptable to a wide range of cuisines.

I’m especially fond of pairing them with Asian fare, where their acidity and subtle tannic structure can complement bold flavors, aromatic spices, and umami-rich dishes. I can easily imagine this wine alongside Vietnamese lemongrass chicken or Japanese miso-glazed fish, where its citrusy freshness, savory depth, and saline character would shine.

For me, Ancient White Wine No. 2 is a delicious reminder that innovation in wine doesn’t always mean looking forward. Sometimes, inspiration from the distant past can lead to something wonderfully distinctive—and exceptionally food-friendly—in the glass.

Have you explored skin-contact white wines? If so, what’s your favorite food pairing?