Alentejo Chronicles: Day 1 – Évora and Herdade Fitapreta

I recently had the pleasure of exploring Portugal’s captivating Alentejo region as a guest of the CVRA, Alentejo’s Regional Winegrowing Commission. Join me as I share my daily adventures in a series of blog posts. I hope you’ll enjoy the journey!

Following an extensive transcontinental flight from San Francisco to Lisbon, followed by a scenic van journey through Alentejo’s undulating landscapes adorned with cork and olive trees, we reached Évora, the enchanting capital of the Alentejo region, in the late afternoon.

After a brief respite, the initial day of our media adventure unfolded as a vibrant mosaic, blending cultural richness with delights for wine enthusiasts.

Évora: A UNESCO Gem

It began with a mesmerizing informal walking tour of the time-worn streets of Évora, where every step reveals a chapter of history and a glimpse into the soul of this UNESCO World Heritage city that is the capital of Alentejo.

Starting just outside the ancient city walls (which date to the 3rd century!), we wandered through the tranquil embrace of the Public Park with a new found peacock friend.

We stood in awe of the Gothic elegance of Saint Francis Church, before visiting the Chapel of Bones, a space that challenges our perceptions and prompts contemplation. Adorned with skeletal remains of 5,000 souls, it stands as a haunting yet beautiful reminder of life’s impermanence. The inscription above the entryway reads “We bones, lying here, for yours await” creating a somber yet thought-provoking about the fragility of life.

Emerging from the contemplative ambiance, we found ourselves in the heart of Évora’s vibrant soul—Giraldo Square, before ascending to the towering grandeur of Evora Cathedral, an iconic landmark that dominates the cityscape.

Our final destination, the iconic Temple of Diana, transported us back to the glory of ancient Rome. Corinthian columns rise proudly amidst the ruins, a testament to Évora’s enduring history.

Heredada Fitapreta Wines

Alentejo has long been associated with fruity, full-bodied red wines, but “Fitapreta’s wines embody “a different Alentejo

Sandra Sárria; Co-owner/Winemaker – Heredade Fitapreta Vinhos

The evening’s crescendo awaited us at the iconic Heredade Fitapreta, a bastion of winemaking legacy nestled within the region’s rolling hills. There, we embarked on an immersive winery tour, indulged in a tantalizing tasting experience, and savored an unforgettable farm-to-table style dinner. The evening reached its zenith with an impromptu and inspiring modern fado performance by co-owner/winemaker Sandra Sárria and her husband Antonio, adding a harmonious note to an already memorable experience!

Herdade Fitapreta, situated near Évora, was established in 2004 by António Maçanita, a visionary winemaker who seamlessly blends innovation with tradition. The winery’s commitment to the restoration of ancient and historic vineyards is unparalleled. From the contemporary gravity flow facility, ingeniously integrated into the remains of a 14th-century monastery and farm, to Maçanita’s meticulous work with numerous indigenous grape varieties that have been absent from commercial winemaking for much of the 20th century and beyond, Fitapreta embodies a rich tapestry of heritage and progress. They produce about 300,000 bottles of wine annually.

Fitapreta demonstrates an unwavering commitment to sustainability, firmly rooted in the ethos of environmental responsibility and community engagement.

Proudly participating in Alentejo’s WASP (Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program) initiative, Heredade Fitapreta goes above and beyond to mitigate its environmental impact. The estate vineyards are organically farmed, a testament to their dedication to ecological harmony.

Further environmental initiatives include establishing new habitats for pollinators, practicing dry farming techniques, and reducing emissions by replacing mechanical equipment with sheep for cover crop maintenance. This holistic approach not only contributes to environmental sustainability but also fosters biodiversity within the vineyard ecosystem.

Wines Tasted

The defining thread running through Fitapreta wines is their freshness and elegance. My tasting notes follow:

2022 Ancestral White – a harmonious blend of Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha, Arinto, Tamarez, Alicante Branco and Antão Vaz with an enticing lemon drop, green apple, wet stone, floral character.

2022 Palpite Reserva – a blend of old vine, barrel fermented Arinto, and Alicante Branco. It unveils a perfumed and exceptionally fresh medley of flavors, featuring notes of grapefruit, quince paste, ripe pear, and white peach.

2021 Arinto das Indigenas do Morgado – Crafted from 100% Arinto grapes and fermented in barrels without temperature control, this intriguing wine showcases the personality of the Morgado de Oliveira vineyard. Bursting with vibrant notes of green apple, zesty lemon, subtle honey, and a touch of flint, each sip is a harmonious blend of freshness and complexity. The use of solely indigenous yeasts adds a layer of authenticity to the wine, capturing the essence of the terroir and the winemaking process.

A Laranja Mecânica (loosely translates to “Clockwork Orange”) – Crafted from a multi-vintage field blend of indigenous grape varieties, including the signature Antão Vaz, along with Arinto, Roupeiro, Alicante Branco, Trincadeira-das-Pratas, Verdelho, and Fernão Pires, this wine presents itself in a pale, slightly cloudy orange hue. Its captivating profile unfolds with notes of mandarin orange, quince, candied mandarin orange zest, spiced peach, and a subtle hint of pineapple.

2021 Fitapreta Tinto – a blend of Aragonês, Alicante Bouschet
Trincadeira and Castelão, this appetizing red this appetizing red wine unfolds a medley of flavors with notes of ripe strawberry, red cherry, red currant, and a touch of blackberry sauce, all seamlessly complemented by undertones of dried herbs.

2021 A Touriga Vai Nua – crafted from 100% Touriga Nacional, the esteemed grape variety native to the Douro Valley. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in stainless steel, it showcases a delightful blend of juicy, floral notes reminiscent of violets. It’s a well framed wine with bright acidity, velvety tannins, offering a palate of ripe blackberry, subtle spice, black currant accented with an enticing savory undertone.

2020 Os Paulistas – Artfully blended from the distinctive Tinta Carvalha, Castelão, Moreto, Alfrocheiro, and Trincadeira grapes sourced from the venerable Chão Dos Eremitas vineyard planted in 1970. This distinguished wine shows an aromatic, harmonious and complex profile with notes of succulent pomegrante, bramble berry, complemented by hints of cedar, leather and forest floor.

Alentejo has long been associated with fruity, full-bodied red wines, but Fitapreta’s wines embody “a different Alentejo,” as Sandra Sárria aptly expressed. I wholeheartedly share that sentiment.

This was just the beginning of our Alentejo journey—stay tuned for more enchanting moments and discoveries in this captivating wine region!

Thirsty for more? I invite you to explore my additional articles on Alentejo for a deeper dive into this enchanting wine region:

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7 Comments

  1. Nancy says:

    Love the connection between history, people, music and wine. Looks like a beautiful visit.

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      It was an amazing media trip Nancy. I think you’d enjoy Alentejo!

  2. Jo says:

    Great memories!

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      Thanks Jo! And I feel so privileged to share the experience with you!

  3. I love when you can not only discover new wines but also a gem of a place like Evora!

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      Thanks so much Allison. I feel blessed to have been on this media trip. I think you’d enjoy Evora and many Alentejo wineries!

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