The first swirl carried a quiet hint of the sea — that unmistakable echo of Sanlúcar’s salty winds. As #SherryWeek continues, I opened a bottle that feels shaped as much by the Atlantic as by time itself: Hidalgo La Gitana “Napoleón” Amontillado.

It’s a wine that bridges worlds, moving from flor to oxidation, from brightness to savory depth, and eventually, from the aged soleras of Andalusia to a classic Filipino dish simmering in my kitchen.

A Family Legacy Rooted in the Sea

Founded in 1792, Bodegas Hidalgo remains one of the oldest family-owned wineries in the Sherry region and is now guided by the sixth generation. Their identity is inseparable from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the seaside tip of the Sherry Triangle, where the Atlantic shapes the wines as much as the solera does.

Compared to Jerez de la Frontera or El Puerto de Santa María, Sanlúcar is cooler, more humid, and swept by constant ocean breezes. These conditions encourage thicker, more persistent flor and impart a subtle salinity and lift to the wines—including Amontillado, which begins life under flor before moving into oxidative aging.

The result is a style that balances freshness with depth, always carrying the faintest whisper of the sea.

The Wine: Hidalgo “Napoleón” Amontillado

“Napoleón” starts as a Manzanilla before transitioning into oxidative aging—giving it the signature duality that makes Amontillado so captivating. It shows the brightness of biological aging, the savory depth of oxidation, and the unmistakable coastal imprint of Sanlúcar.

Tasting note: Pale amber color with bruised green apple, hazelnut, toffee and subtle dried blood orange, and sea spray aromas. On the palate it’s medium bodied with mouthwatering acidity, and ripe pear, golden fig, toffee, dried orange peel flavors and a subtle saline minerality. 500 ml| 17.5% abv| SRP – $22| 87pts

A Cross-Cultural Pairing: Filipino Chicken Adobo

Amontillado is classically recommended for dishes that fly, so the pairing with chicken felt natural. What intrigued me was how the wine would meet the savory, tangy complexity of Filipino Chicken Adobo—a dish built from soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, peppercorns, and bay leaf.

The result was harmony:

• the wine’s acidity cut through the richness of the braise
• its nutty, savory notes echoed the soy sauce and aromatics
• its salinity played beautifully with the vinegar
• its gentle oxidative warmth wrapped around the dish’s spice

What impressed me wasn’t that the pairing worked—it was how it worked. The Amontillado didn’t fight the vinegar; it softened and expanded it, revealing depth that often goes unnoticed when eating Adobo alone.

A Bright Companion: Persimmon Carpaccio

To accompany the Adobo, I served a persimmon carpaccio salad with thinly slice Fuyu persimmon, pomegranate seeds, pistachios, burrata, and a pomegranate balsamic vinaigrette And once again, the Amontillado adapted. Its dried citrus and nutty tones mirrored the fruit, its salinity balanced the burrata, and its acidity played beautifully with the vinaigrette.

Two very different dishes.
One wine that paired with both effortlessly.

Why Amontillado Shines at the Table

I’ve long believed Amontillado is the most food-friendly Sherry. Its dual aging gives it a rare mix of brightness and savory depth. Yes, Palo Cortado also straddles these styles, but it’s far rarer and often more expensive.

Amontillado is both versatile and accessible—equally at home with roasted meats, umami-rich dishes, warm spices, aged cheeses, nuts, and even certain fruits and vegetables.
It adapts. And it elevates.

Final Thoughts: Sherry Week Reminds Us to Explore

The Hidalgo “Napoleón” Amontillado brought the spirit of Sanlúcar to my table, yet it felt perfectly at home beside Filipino Chicken Adobo and a persimmon carpaccio salad.

If Sherry Week teaches anything, it’s that the most memorable pairings aren’t always the traditional ones — they’re the ones that invite us to explore.

Here’s to crossing borders, in wine and in food! Salud!

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