What if one of Greece’s most iconic grapes could thrive under California sun? That’s the question the 2022 Sandlands Assyrtiko answers—deliciously. Lodi, already home to more than 100 wine grape varieties, has become a proving ground for the unexpected. From Iberian to Italian to Rhône, Mediterranean grapes flourish here, and now Assyrtiko—famed for its origins on the volcanic island of Santorini—has found promising new ground in the Mokelumne River AVA.

About Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko (ah-SEER-tee-koh) is widely considered Greece’s most celebrated white grape. Indigenous to Santorini, it has long been prized for its piercing acidity, saline minerality, and ability to stay fresh even in the island’s windswept, volcanic soils. Those same qualities make it a natural fit for California’s Mediterranean climate, particularly in Lodi, where heat- and drought-tolerant varieties already thrive.

The Perlegos Connection

This story takes root with brothers Jeff and John Perlegos, second-generation Lodi growers with Greek heritage. In 2021, they grafted a Merlot vineyard planted in 1977 over to Assyrtiko—bringing their lineage and farming together in a bold experiment. The Perlegos family has built a strong reputation for their thoughtful, sustainability-driven practices, making them key voices in Lodi’s evolving wine landscape.

About Sandlands

The fruit for this wine was purchased by Sandlands, the personal project of winemaker Tegan Passalacqua. Sandlands is devoted to California’s forgotten vineyards and heritage varieties—wines that tell the story of place rather than trend. The focus is on “classic California varieties, primarily grown in decomposed granite (sand), from regions and vineyards that have been farmed for many generations but have remained the outliers of California viticulture.”

Passalacqua’s lineup includes thoughtful bottlings of Chenin Blanc, Cinsault, Mataro (Mourvèdre), Carignane, Trousseau, and Assyrtiko—varieties that rarely take center stage in California. And his vision continues to expand: recent plantings of Carricante and Nerello Mascalese in the Sierra Foothills (in a town aptly named Volcano) underscore his passion for preserving tradition while pushing boundaries. By working with the Perlegos family’s newly grafted Assyrtiko, Sandlands not only honors the grape’s Greek roots but also reinforces a shared commitment to authenticity and sustainability in Lodi.

Wine of the Week: the 2022 Sandlands Assyrtiko.

Tasting Note: Pale straw color with enticing stone fruit, lime zest, melon, petrichor, and a kiss of flint aromas. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied with bright, mouth-watering zesty acidity with flavors of lime zest , white peach, melon accented with a very appealing saline minerality. 13.6% abv|91pts

Final Thoughts

The 2022 Sandlands Assyrtiko is more than just a fascinating bottling—it’s a glimpse into Lodi’s future. With over 100 grape varieties flourishing, the region continues to show itself as a laboratory for diversity and innovation. In the hands of growers like Jeff and John Perlegos, whose Greek roots give them a personal connection to this variety, Assyrtiko has found both a cultural and viticultural home.

As my Wine of the Week, the 2022 Sandlands Assyrtiko captures everything that makes Lodi so exciting right now: wines that honor heritage, embrace sustainability, and expand the conversation about what California wine can be. Alive with freshness, structure, and possibility, it’s a wine that doesn’t just echo its Greek origins—it writes a new chapter for Lodi.