Every once in a while, a wine comes along that feels like a discovery. My pick this week, the 2022 Tablas Creek Counoise, is just that kind of bottle—a little-known Rhône grape variety that rarely steps into the spotlight but rewards curiosity with brightness, spice, and charm. Add in the fact that it’s farmed regeneratively, and you have a wine that’s as meaningful as it is delicious.

What makes Counoise special is its versatility. With moderate alcohol, gentle tannins, and lively fruit, acidity, and spice, it brings brightness to the more powerful Rhône reds where it’s often blended. On its own, it shines as a lighter chillable red—playful, approachable, and reminiscent of Gamay.

About Tablas Creek Vineyard

Tablas Creek Vineyard (“TCV”) is a pioneer in Paso Robles, celebrated for its Rhône-style wines and its leadership in regenerative agriculture. The winery was founded in 1987 as a partnership between two legendary families: the Perrins of Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Haases of Vineyard Brands in the United States. Today, the next generation continues that vision, blending deep respect for tradition with forward-thinking innovation.

Sustainability is at the heart of TCV’s mission. In 2020, it became the first vineyard in the U.S. to earn Regenerative Organic Certified™ status, and in 2022, it achieved the even more rigorous Gold level certification. These milestones reflect a commitment not just to making wine, but to stewarding the land for generations to come.

The choice of Paso Robles was deliberate. The region’s limestone-rich soils and Mediterranean climate mirror those of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. To honor that connection, the Perrins and Haases imported vine cuttings directly from France, grafting and propagating them on-site. Today, TCV farms 115 organically certified acres. Since 2010, the estate has also incorporated biodynamic practices, with sheep and alpacas helping to cultivate a balanced ecosystem—a natural extension of their regenerative philosophy.

In My Glass

Counoise (pronounced “Coon-wahz”) is one of the 13 permitted varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, though it rarely takes center stage. According to Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral, the grape was brought from Spain in the 14th century and gifted to Pope Urban V while the papacy was based in Avignon. By the 19th century, Counoise had earned a place of honor at estates like Château la Nerthe, thanks to Commandant Ducos, who recognized its unique role in shaping the region’s wines.

Tablas Creek introduced Counoise to California in 1990, bringing cuttings from Château de Beaucastel. After three years in quarantine, the vines were propagated and planted. Today, TCV farms eight acres of Counoise—six established in the 1990s and the remaining planted in 2021—making it one of the few producers to showcase this grape as a varietal wine.

Tasting Note: Pale ruby color with enticing wild strawberry, cranberry, wet clay, bramble, rooibos tea, white pepper and sweet spice aromas. On the palate, it’s between light and medium bodied, and fresh with mouthwatering acidity, and dusty tannins. It shows ripe flavors of raspberry, plum, cranberry, rooibos tea, dried herb and baking spice flavors with a generous finish. 13% abv| SRP – $40| 91pts

This is a wine that begs to be slightly chilled. Its modest alcohol, silky tannins, and spicy character evoke the joyful drinkability of Beaujolais Gamay—a comparison I mean as high praise. It’s also a wine that would shine at the Thanksgiving table, versatile enough to complement everything from turkey to cranberry sauce.

Note: The 2022 vintage is now sold out, but 2023 vintage is available at the same price.

Final Thoughts

The 2022 Tablas Creek Counoise is more than just a delicious bottle—it’s a window into the philosophy that defines this pioneering estate. From the beginning, it was important to Tablas Creek to plant and farm all of the permitted varieties of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, ensuring that their blends would carry the same depth and authenticity as those from the Rhône. Counoise, though rarely bottled on its own, has found a home here, where its freshness and spice shine in the glass.

By farming regeneratively and championing grape varieties that might otherwise be overlooked, Tablas Creek reminds us that sustainability and tradition can coexist beautifully. For the adventurous wine lover, this Counoise offers both discovery and delight. Highly recommended.