Each week, I spotlight a wine that truly captivates—whether for its distinctive character, fascinating story, or the sheer delight it brings to the glass. This week’s feature: the 2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling, a wine that stands apart for all the right reasons. In a region famed for bold Cabernet and opulent Chardonnay, this mountain-grown Riesling is a rare and radiant outlier—a vivid testament to both site and stewardship.

A Legacy Rooted in Mountain Soil

Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery is a family-owned estate perched on Spring Mountain, just west of St. Helena in Napa Valley. Founded in 1971 by Stuart Smith, with his brother Charles joining a year later, the winery has remained under their stewardship for over five decades. Stuart manages the estate and vineyard, while Charles serves as the winemaker—a true partnership grounded in passion and perseverance.

The name “Smith-Madrone” honors the family’s legacy and the striking Madrone tree, an evergreen native to the ranch’s rugged slopes. When the Smiths purchased the 200-acre property, they found remnants of a vineyard planted a century earlier, now overtaken by dense forest. With vision and grit, they cleared sections of the land, restoring its winemaking heritage while preserving its wild beauty. Today, the estate is a patchwork of steep vineyards, historic landmarks, and native flora and fauna.

Vines at Elevation, Wines of Distinction

All of Smith-Madrone’s wines come from 34 acres of estate vineyards, planted at elevations ranging from 1,300 to 2,000 feet on slopes as steep as 35%. The vineyard includes 6.25 acres of Riesling, 10.25 acres of Chardonnay, and 13 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. The brothers are also pioneers of dry farming, practicing minimal irrigation since 2017 to deepen the vine’s connection to the land.

The winery produces five estate wines, each a direct reflection of its mountain terroir:

• Riesling: A vivid expression of Spring Mountain—zippy, mineral-driven, and pure.
• Chardonnay: Rich yet fresh, a harmonious balance of power and precision.
• Estate Rosé: A playful blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, crisp and full of character.
• Cabernet Sauvignon: Deep and structured, blended with touches of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
• Cabernet Franc: A new and exciting addition to their lineup.
• Cook’s Flat Reserve: A limited-production flagship, crafted only in exceptional vintages.

2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling

Smith-Madrone was founded with a clear vision: to craft exceptional Riesling, capitalizing on its rugged mountain site and steep, well-drained slopes. Stu Smith has often likened marketing Riesling to a Sisyphean task. True to that spirit of perseverance, in 1983, Smith-Madrone became trailblazers by changing their wine label from “Johannisberg Riesling” to simply “Riesling,” standing firm against regulatory resistance. For 17 years, they were the only American winery to make this bold move, ultimately prevailing in their quest to streamline the name.

Their Riesling is crafted from 100% estate-grown fruit planted in 1972, with most vines still thriving on their original rootstock—a rare and remarkable testament to tradition and terroir in a region where Riesling is a true rarity.

Tasting note: Pale golden yellow with enticing aromas of dried apricot, honey, beeswax, petrol, and Key lime zest. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and dry with zesty mouthwatering acidity and flavors of green apple, white peach, green melon, Key lime, a hint of starfruit, and a gentle thread of honey. The finish is long, and layered.

• 100% Riesling
• 12.8% ABV
• 1,199 Cases produced
• 92 points

If you’re looking for a dry California Riesling that reflects both a singular mountain site and an unwavering commitment to excellence, look no further than Smith-Madrone’s!