Each week, I love spotlighting a wine that truly stands out—whether for its unique personality, compelling backstory, or the sheer joy it brings in the glass. This week’s pick is all three: the 2023 Matthiasson Vermentino from the Cressida Vineyard, a vibrant expression of a lesser-known grape that deserves more attention.

Matthiasson Wines

Based in Napa Valley, Matthiasson Wines is a small, fiercely independent, family-run winery founded in 2003 by viticulturist Steve Matthiasson and sustainable food advocate Jill Klein Matthiasson. Together, they bring decades of experience in agriculture and a deep-rooted commitment to sustainability. Their winemaking philosophy treats wine as a natural extension of farming — grounded in organic and regenerative practices, and driven by a strong sense of place.

Whether it’s a familiar Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon or a rare variety like Ribolla Gialla, Matthiasson’s wines are crafted with purity, balance, and food-friendliness in mind. Moderate in alcohol and expressive in character, their wines reflect thoughtful, hands-on farming with “no compromises in the vineyard or the winery”.

2023 Matthiasson Vermentino Cressida Vineyard

Fruit for this wine was sourced from the the Cressida Vineyard, perched along a ridgetop in the upper reaches of the Los Carneros AVA. The Matthiasson’s and their partners purchased the vineyard in 2022. With sweeping views of the San Francisco Bay and even the San Francisco skyline on a clear day, this cool-climate site offers the kind of coastal influence that brings vibrancy and finesse to the fruit.

To preserve the fresh and crunchy character and keep the alcohol moderate, the grapes were harvested on the early side while they still had beautiful natural acidity. We then split the fruit into two separate fermentation lots. The riper portion of the vineyard was fermented on the skins to capture all the gorgeous texture, minerality, and aromatics of an orange wine. The less ripe portion of the vineyard went direct to press and was pressed whole cluster like a more traditional white wine. The juice from this second lot was fermented in neutral barrels. The lots were blended after fermentation to achieve the best of both worlds — bright acidity and textured depth. – Matthiasson Wines

Tasting note: Pale gold color with a copper hue, this wine is aromatically complex with
pear, apple, mixed citrus (lime zest, lemon verbena, mandarin orange zest, sea spray, almond skin and subtle herbal notes. On the palate, it’s medium-full bodied with vibrant, zesty acidity and a faint hint of tannins with give it a wonderful texture. It shows flavors of ripe apples, pears, mixed citrus zest and a hint of dried apricot with a very appealing saline minerality. Long finish. 13% abv|SRP – $32|92pts

Final Thoughts

The 2023 Matthiasson Vermentino is a masterclass in balance — vibrant yet textured, fresh yet deeply layered. It’s a reminder that lesser-known varieties, when farmed and vinified with intention, can deliver just as much intrigue as their more familiar counterparts. This is a wine that invites curiosity, rewards attention, and shines at the table. We paired it with Spicy Tuna Spaghetti alla Siciliana one night and sushi and sashimi the next. If you’re looking to explore beyond the usual suspects, this bottle is a beautiful place to start.