Each week, I spotlight a wine that truly captivates—whether for its distinctive character, fascinating story, or the sheer delight it brings to the glass. This week’s feature is the 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling, a wine that exemplifies the rare and exceptional. In a region celebrated for bold reds and opulent Chardonnays, this Riesling is a delightful surprise, showcasing the artistry of the Smith brothers and the unique terroir of their Spring Mountain vineyard.

Smith-Madrone

Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery, is a family-owned and estate-bottled winery perched on Spring Mountain, west of St. Helena in northern Napa Valley, was established in 1971 by Stuart Smith. His brother Charles joined him a year later, forming a partnership that endures to this day. Stuart oversees the estate as Managing Partner and Vineyard Manager, while Charles is the Winemaker.

The winery’s name reflects the Smith family’s legacy and pays tribute to the Madrone tree, a striking evergreen with a red-brown trunk and elegant branches that thrive on the ranch’s rugged terrain.

When the Smith brothers acquired the 200-acre ranch in 1971, they inherited the remnants of a vineyard planted over a century earlier. However, much of the land had been reclaimed by dense forest. Determined to revive the site’s winemaking heritage, they brought in loggers to clear sections of the land, painstakingly carving out what would become their vineyards. Today, the ranch remains a tapestry of historical landmarks, natural beauty, and vibrant wildlife.

All of Smith-Madrone’s wines are crafted exclusively from their 34 acres of steep hillside vineyards, perched at elevations of 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The vineyard, with slopes as steep as 35%, is planted to 6.25 acres of Riesling, 10.25 acres of Chardonnay, and 13 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, along with smaller plantings of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc for blending.

The Smiths are pioneers of dry farming, a practice that conserves water and deepens the connection between the vines and their mountain terroir. Since 2017, their vineyards have been minimally irrigated, if at all, resulting in wines that are a pure expression of this unique site.

Smith Madrone produces five estate wines, each a reflection of the vineyard’s unique terroir:

• Riesling: A vibrant expression of acidity and minerality, grown on 6.25 acres of meticulously tended vines.
• Chardonnay: 10.25 acres yield a wine of balance and finesse, marrying richness with refreshing clarity.
• Estate Rosé: a fun and refreshing pink wine that is an unconventional blend of estate Merlot and Cabernet Franc
• Cabernet Sauvignon: From 13 acres of steep slopes comes a wine of structure and depth, complemented by small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc for blending.
• Cook’s Flat Reserve: A limited-production wine that represents the pinnacle of their craftsmanship.

2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling

Smith-Madrone was founded with a clear vision: to craft exceptional Riesling, capitalizing on its rugged mountain site and steep, well-drained slopes. Stu Smith has often likened marketing Riesling to a Sisyphean task. True to that spirit of perseverance, in 1983, Smith-Madrone became trailblazers by changing their wine label from “Johannisberg Riesling” to simply “Riesling,” standing firm against regulatory resistance. For 17 years, they were the only American winery to make this bold move, ultimately prevailing in their quest to streamline the name.

Their Riesling is crafted from 100% estate-grown fruit planted in 1972, with most vines still thriving on their original rootstock—a rare and remarkable testament to tradition and terroir in a region where Riesling is a true rarity.

Tasting Note: Pale lemon color with with petrol, flint, white peach, green pear, lime zest and lemon oil aromas with hints of spice and wet stone. On the palate, it’s on the lighter side of medium -bodied and very fresh mouth-watering acidity with green pear, white peach, Key lime zest, lemon, subtle spice, and hints of honey and ginger with an appealing wet stone minerality. Lengthy finish. 13.3% abv| SRP – $36|92pts

The Smith-Madrone Riesling are a perennial favorite of mine—not only because it’s absolutely delicious but also because it’s wonderfully food-friendly. Case in point: it paired beautifully with Coconut Curry Chickpeas With Pumpkin and Lime, accompanied by a side of tofu. The wine’s bright acidity and vibrant citrus notes perfectly balanced the dish’s creamy, spicy flavors.

In a region celebrated for bold reds and opulent Chardonnays, the 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling stands out as a rare gem—a testament to the artistry and dedication of the Smith brothers. It’s a treat to sip a world-class Riesling from the Napa Valley, a wine that’s as unexpected as it is exceptional.