Each week, I spotlight a wine that leaves a lasting impression—whether for its unique personality, compelling story, or the pure pleasure it brings to the glass. This week, that honor goes to the 2009 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Panoplie, a wine that truly stands out.

Drinking this 15-year-old Rhône blend from Tablas Creek was a remarkable experience, where time has layered the wine with more depth and complexity. The fruit has evolved into some very appealing savory notes, while the tannins have softened, creating a seamless, balanced structure. Its acidity is beautifully integrated, inviting a contemplative appreciation of each nuanced sip—an elegant journey that rewards patience and reflects the artistry of aging.

When deciding to bring this wine along on a recent trip to Mexico, I consulted the the excellent Tablas Creek Vintage Chart which provides expert insights on back vintages. opinion on the state of this wine. Regularly updated by the Tablas Creek team, this chart offers a guided view of each vintage’s evolution as follows:

• More Aging Recommended
• Drinking well; Youthful
• Drinking well: Mature
• Late Maturity; Drink up!
• Decanting Recommended
• Hold; Closed Phase
• Past its Prime

Tablas Creek Vineyards

Tablas Creek Vineyard (“TCV”) stands as a pioneer in Paso Robles, celebrated for its Rhône-style wines and commitment to regenerative agriculture. This influential winery is a partnership between two revered wine families: the Perrins of Château de Beaucastel in France’s Rhône Valley and the Haases of Vineyard Brands in the United States. Founded in 1987, TCV remains a family-led endeavor, with the new generation of Haases and Perrins guiding it into an era that honors tradition while embracing innovative practices.

At the heart of TCV’s mission lies a dedication to regenerative agriculture, a philosophy they champion as essential to addressing climate and resource challenges. In 2020, TCV became the first vineyard in the United States to earn Regenerative Organic Certified™ status, and in 2022, it achieved Regenerative Organic Certified™ Gold—a testament to its leadership in sustainable viticulture.

After a long search for the perfect terroir, the Perrin and Haas families chose Paso Robles, captivated by its soil and climate’s remarkable resemblance to that of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Their commitment to authenticity led them to import vine cuttings directly from France, which they propagated and grafted on-site. These vines would lay the foundation for TCV’s 115-acre estate vineyard, certified organic since 2003.

In 2010, TCV expanded its sustainable practices by integrating biodynamic principles, adding sheep and alpacas to naturally manage the vineyards. By 2017, these efforts earned them biodynamic certification, cementing their role as trailblazers in responsible viticulture. The story of TCV is one of passion, heritage, and an unyielding commitment to sustainability—qualities that have made it a cornerstone of California’s wine landscape.

2009 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Panoplie

Panoplie is Tablas Creek Vineyard’s flagship red, crafted only in exceptional vintages as a tribute to Château de Beaucastel’s Hommage à Jacques Perrin. This barrel-select blend of 65% Mourvèdre, 26% Grenache, and 9% Syrah is composed entirely of organic estate fruit, fermented with native yeast. The wine ferments in a mix of upright oak casks and stainless steel, followed by pressing and barrel aging. After carefully blending, it ages further in a 1,200-gallon French oak foudre before bottling, with the 2011 release showcasing the vineyard’s dedication to both tradition and terroir.

Tasting Note:

Translucent garnet color with very aromatic, dark fruit, bramble, leather, iron, eucalyptus, dried herb, and a hint of smoked meat aromas. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, and very harmonious with velvety tannins and mouth-watering acidity. It shows black cherry, ripe black raspberry, plum dried herb and spice flavors that offer a very appealing savory character. Long earthy finish. 14.5% abv|SRP – $130|530 cases produced| 93pts

At 15 years old, this wine remains remarkably youthful, vibrant, and utterly delicious—a true delight! Please note: Panoplie wines are exclusively available to members.