Each week, I like to spotlight a wine that has truly stood out—whether for its unique character, the story behind its creation, or simply the pure joy it brings. This week’s pick – the 2023 Markus Wine Co. Grüner Veltliner is no exception.

“Grüner Veltliner is not just chic at the moment; it deserves a permanent place in the Hall of Fame of important grape varieties and a leading role among the wines to pair with food.” – Terry Theise of Michael Skurnik Wines

I’m spotlighting this wine not only for its outstanding quality and food-friendly nature but also because Grüner Veltliner is a rare find in California. Even rarer is that Markus Niggli, the owner and winemaker of Markus Wine Co. in Lodi, seldom bottles single-varietal wines. This makes the 2023 Markus Wine Co. Grüner Veltliner a truly special offering.

Markus Wine Co.

Markus Wine Co.is a boutique winery located in Lodi, California, known for producing distinctive, small-lot wines with a focus on ancient vine and newer plantings of lesser-known grape varieties and sustainable farming practices.

Markus Niggli, a Swiss-born winemaker and owner, is a trailblazer in Lodi’s wine scene. With experience across Switzerland, New Zealand, and California, he brings a global perspective to his craft. Rooted in European techniques, Niggli focuses on rare varietals like Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, and Riesling, while also blending classic Lodi varieties such as Carignane, Zinfandel, and Syrah. In a unique marketing twist, he labels his blends with imaginative names rather than the grape varieties. Each bottle features an artistic label, enhancing the overall wine experience.

On the subject of his labels, Markus explains, “People, like wine, are shaped by unique places,” (2) underscoring his belief that both are influenced by their origins. Each label blends a meaningful location from Markus’s past with the current grape source(s). These designs are the result of a long-standing collaboration with label designer Michael Leonard and his students at the University of the Pacific,

Niggli’s winemaking philosophy centers around showcasing the character of the vineyard and grape, focusing on minimal intervention. He prioritizes native yeast fermentation, avoids heavy oak influence, and strives to create wines that are expressive of their origins rather than manipulated in the cellar.

His commitment to sustainability, transparency, and experimentation sets him apart in Lodi. Niggli crafts wines that reflect the land and season

Disclosure: Wine was provided as a media sample. No other compensation was received. All opinions are mine.

2023 Markus Wine Co. Grüner Veltliner

Grüner Veltliner (“grew-ner felt-lee-ner”) is Austria’s flagship grape variety, making up nearly one-third of all wine grapes grown in the country. Known for its lively acidity and distinctive minerality, Grüner is beloved by wine enthusiasts for its aromatic complexity, often featuring notes of white pepper, stone fruit, and herbs. Though it’s a relative newcomer to California, with the first plantings in 2003, it has quietly gained a following among winemakers and wine lovers alike. Its vibrant, spicy minerality and zesty acidity make it not only exciting to drink but also exceptionally food-friendly.

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The fruit for this wine is sourced exclusively from North Vineyard Block 3, located in Lodi’s coolest sub-AVA, the Mokelumne River AVA. Planted in 2019, this young vineyard benefits from the region’s unique microclimate, contributing to the wine’s distinctive character.

The grapes were whole-cluster pressed and fermented with native yeast. It underwent no malolactic fermentation, preserving its natural acidity, and was aged for 3 months in 100% neutral barrels. With only 150 cases produced, this limited-release wine offers a truly artisanal experience.

Tasting note:

Pale straw in color, the wine reveals provocative aromas of ripe peach, apple, guava, lemon zest, flint, dried herbs, and a hint of petrichor. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied with zesty, mouthwatering acidity and a satisfying mouthfeel. Flavors of white peach, green apple, lemon zest, and guava are accented by a subtle herbaceousness, leading to a very satisfying finish. 13.1% abv | SRP – $25 | 90pts

We paired this gem of a wine with a mildly spicy Shrimp Scampi where I substituted Aleppo pepper for red pepper flakes. It turned out to be an outstanding match. You could also consider pairing it with lightly spiced Asian dishes, seafood, goat cheese, fresh salads, or asparagus.

I encourage reader to seek out this wine, particularly if you’re looking to mix things up in your white wine game. You’ll find that it offers outstanding quality for the prices and it beautifully balanced profile is very food friendly year round!

You may purchase the wines on the Markus Wine Co. website. Or, if you’re in Lodi Wine Country, they’re available for purchase Lodi Wine Visitor Center.

Sources and resources:

1. The Wine Cellar Insider; Gruner Veltliner in America, The Wine Grape of Austria Comes to The US
2. About Us, Markus Wine Co. website