Delving Into The Rich World of Chilean Carménère #WorldWineTravel

Today 96% of the world’s Carménère is planted in Chile, and the grape has become Chile’s flagship wine!

In honor of Carménère  Day on November 24th, the World Wine Travel group of writers/bloggers are exploring all things Carménère  this month.

Carménère is celebrated on 24th November because that is the date to a French researcher, Jean-Michel Boursiquot was visiting the Maipo Valley, and spotted the different vines in a Merlot vineyard. The twisted stamens of the vines were unmistakably not Merlot. He immediately identified it as the extinct (or so presumed) Carmenère wine variety. Consequent DNA tests proved he was right. (1)

History of Carménère 

Carménère held a distinguished position as one of the original six red grape varieties of Bordeaux, standing alongside the prestigious lineage of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. Though its historical roots run deep, Carménère garnered significant recognition for its pivotal role in Bordeaux blends, notably in the Medoc region, where it emerged as one of the most extensively planted grapes.

The late 1860s saw the devastating impact of the phylloxera plague sweeping through Europe, leading to Carménère being virtually deemed extinct in Bordeaux. During the reconstruction of Bordeaux’s vineyards, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon took precedence as the favored choices for replanting. This preference arose from the fact that Carménère did not respond as favorably to grafting as compared to Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Fortunately, for Chile and Carménère, enterprising Chilean vignerons had taken cuttings from the region’s vineyards. However, a high proportion of what they believed to be Merlot, a grape variety in the early days of its fame, turned out to be the similar looking Carménère explains WineSearcher. (2)

Over the following century, Chilean winemakers noticed that there was a great variety of ‘Merlot’ in their vineyards. And indeed much of their ‘Merlot’ was quite different to the newer plantings of Merlot brought in after the 1860s, and tasted very different to other Merlots in the world. The ‘Merlot’ (or clandestine Carmenère) plants flourished in Chile, but they produced fruit of a different flavour and the vines turned a bright red much earlier into the season. The old Carmenère cuttings were renamed Merlot Chileno and Chile became renowned for its unique style of Merlot.(1)

That all changed on with the aformentioned discovery on November 24, 1994.

In 20 years the Chilean wine industry has come forward leaps and bounds with the variety and trial and error has led to different approaches in the vineyard and winery. Chile also overcame the marketing challenge for promoting a little-known variety and today the world-class Carmenère wines being made in Chile have garnered fans across the globe.(1)

Today 96% of the world’s Carménère is planted in Chile, and the grape has become Chile’s flagship wine!

The Wines

Disclosure: Wines were provided as a media samples. No other compensation was received. All opinions are mine.

I sampled six Chilean Carménère wine from various sub-regions within Chile’s Entre Cordilleras (a.k.a Central Valley) which is the epicenter of Chile’s vibrant viticultuire. It is a long strip of land framed by the Andes to the East and the Mountains of the coastal range that offers a multitude of terroirs. It’s Mediterranean climate, high solar radiation, sedimentary soils and the presence of cold nights are ideal for Carménère.

My tasting notes follow:

  • 2020 Luma Chequen Gran Reserva Red Blend – Chile, Maule Valley
    Deep garnet color with enticing black and red fruit, dried herb, roasted red bell peppers,cedar, cacao and vanilla aromas. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and fresh with well integrated velvety tannins and black raspberry, plum, dried Morello cherry, vanilla, and cacao nib flavors. 100% Carmenere for three estate vineyards. Raised in barrel for 12 months. Vegan. 13.9% abv| SRP – $17 (89 pts.)
  • 2020 TerraNoble Carménère CA2 Costa – Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley
    Medium purple color with enticing plum, boysenberry, white pepper, paprika aromas. On the palate, it’s light-bodied, and very fresh with supple tannins with plum, boysenberry, raspberry, spice, vanilla and dark chocolate flavors. 100% Carmenere sourced from Lolol vineyard is located 40 kilometers from the ocean. Raised in 58% of the wine was aged in untoasted foudres, and 42% in new and previously used 300-lt French oak barrels for 16 months. Vegan wine + Certified Sustainable Winery. 14.5% abv| SRP – $36 (91 pts.)
  • 2020 Montes Carménère Wings – Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
    Deep purple color with enticing black and red fruit, green pepper, white pepper, vanilla and subtle cedar aromas On the palate, it’s medium-bodied with firm well integrated tannins and bright acidity with raspberry sauce, blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, dark chocolate flavors accented with savory spice notes. Blend of Carmenère 85%/Cabernet Franc 15%. Raised in 80% new French oak barrels;in second and third-use barrels for 16 months. 14.5% abv| SRP – $55 (91 pts.)
  • 2020 Morandé Carménère Vitis Unica – Chile, Maipo Valley
    Pale ruby color with blueberry, red cherry, raspberry pink peppercorn, and damp clay aromas. On the palate, it’s blueberry, red cherry, raspberry sauce and spice flavors. Medium finish. Raised in 80% French oak foudres of 2,000 and 4,000 liters and 20% in new 225 liters French oak barrels for 16 months 13.5% abv|SRP – $20 (88 pts.)
  • 2020 Alto De Casablanca Carménère Primus Apalta – Chile, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley, Apalta
    Deep purple color with black cherry, cedar, paprika, carob and vanilla aromas. On the palate it’s medium bodied and very fresh with well integrated velvety, sweet tannins and black cherry, black raspberry, dried blueberry, vanilla and dark chocolate flavors accented with savory spice. Long finish. Made from organic grapes. Raised in French oak(18% new) for 12 months. 14.5% abv| SRP – $21 (92 pts.)
  • 2021 Viña San Esteban Carménère In Situ Reserva – Chile, Aconcagua Valley
    Medium ruby color with black and red fruit, green peppercorn, cedar and a hint of cumin aromas. On the the palate, it’s medium-bodied with lively acidity and well-integrated velvety tannins. It shows red currant, black raspberry, and black cherry flavors with an appealing green pepper and subtle herb notes. Medium finish. Blend of 95% Carmenère and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from vineyard situated ~3,000 feet along the banks of the Aconcagua River. Raised in 50% French and 50% American 225-litre oak barrels for 12 months.13% abv| SRP – $13 (88 pts.)

Thanks to Chile’s diverse terroirs and winemaking style, the wines spanned the spectrum from the more traditional, robust and ripe style to the leaner, fresher, and more light-bodied variations, covering the full range of styles in between.

What a joy to delve into the rich, and diverse world of Chilean Carménère!

On My Plate

Over a span of a few weeks, I paired these wines with an array of ethnic cuisines, embracing the diverse flavors of Filipino, Indian, Brazilian, and Mexican dishes. You’ll find my thoughts on the pairing in the caption below the photos.

The Primus paired beautifully with Habichuelas (a Filipino white bean soup) with chicken and chorizo)
TerraNoble paired with Chicken Tika Masala + Chickpea Curry. Good with the Chicken Tika…Better with the Chickpea Curry
Both of these wines were wonderful paired with Feijoada – A Brazilian stew
The Luma Chequen Gran Reserva Red Blend paired beautifully with homemade Chile Rellenos with Shrimp Burritos!

At The Table

Carménère proved itself as a versatile and food-friendly wine for me. It’s undoubtedly earning a spot on my list of preferred red wines, standing alongside Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc for vegetarian delights, especially dishes featuring roasted veggies and mushrooms. The same roasted pepper, green bell pepper and sometimes savory spice/herbal notes that make Carménère an interesting wine make it more versatile at the table as well Beyond vegetarian fare, I highly recommend exploring its pairing potential with a diverse range of dishes, such as:

  • Grilled Meats: The wine’s structure and flavors complement grilled meats, such as steak, lamb, and pork. The smoky notes in Carménère can harmonize with the char from grilling.
  • Spicy Dishes: Carménère’s spiciness and fruitiness can work well with spicier dishes, including those with Mexican, Cajun, or other bold spice profiles.
  • Hard Cheeses: Carménère can stand up to the richness of hard cheeses like aged cheddar, gouda, or manchego.
  • Pasta with Tomato-based Sauces: Carménère’s acidity can complement the acidity in tomato-based pasta sauces.
  • Game Meats: Given its earthy and sometimes herbal characteristics, Carménère can be a good match for game meats like venison or duck.

#WorldWineTravel Writers on Carmenere

Here are the links to the articles the #WorldWineTravel Writers will be sharing!

More on Carménère from the writers with #WorldWineTravel

Here are the links to the articles the #WorldWineTravel Writers will be sharing!

Sources and resources

  1. Carmenère Day & the story of a mistaken identity
  2. Carmenere Wine

11 Comments

  1. David says:

    I like the diverse array of pairings here! I’m going to have to try Carmenere with Indian food again soon.

  2. love Carmenere! Happy Carmenere Day!

  3. wendyklik says:

    I think Carmenere is a very food friendly wine and you prove it by sharing so many wonderful pairings.

  4. It took a trip to Chile to fully appreciate Carmenere but now we love it. Such an amazing story about how they originally thought it was Merlot! As usual, your pairings look totally on point (insert heart emoji here).

  5. robincgc says:

    I love that you found so many dishes from around the world to pair well with these wines! I’m glad that some producers have started to embrace the pyrazines in these wines. I find so much more complexity in the wines that have not become to ripe. That is not to say that I dislike the other style. Variety is the spice of life!

  6. Sharon Parsons says:

    Looking forward to trying some of these soon!!

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      Thanks for dropping by Sharon. I hope you do get a chance to try Chilean Carmenere! Happy holidays to you and yours!

  7. What a wide array of wines and pairings, Martin! Amazing and inspiring.

  8. Lynn says:

    I wasn’t aware of Boursiquot’s research, fascinating to know. Haven’t come upon many wines with Carménère in Bordeaux, but now you’ve got me looking. I’d love to happen upon a monovarietal, how cool would that be!?! We have one bottle of Chilean Carménère left from a trip five years ago. Hum… perhaps with Feijoada!

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