Last week’s Wine of the Week; Golden Hue of Curiosity explored how skin contact can transform white wine into something luminous and layered. This week, that curiosity continues along the rugged coast of South Africa with the 2022 Scions of Sinai Tekstur—a wine that’s as much about texture and place as it is about flavor

Rooted in Legacy, Raised by the Land

Seventh-generation winegrower and winemaker Bernhard Bredell is woven into the fabric of Sinai Hill, where his ancestors planted vines more than 160 years ago. Here, between the Helderberg Mountains and the icy swells of the Atlantic Ocean, his family’s legacy endures in the roots that cling to decomposed granite and in the quiet rhythm of the sea beyond. Bernhard belongs to this land as naturally as the wind that moves through its vines.

That legacy, however, nearly slipped away. After his grandfather’s passing, the family was forced to sell most of their vineyards when KWV Cellars abruptly ended its Port program—a trade the Bredells had supplied for generations. What remains of the original land now belongs to Bernhard’s cousin, who continues to farm it, while Bernhard tends select parcels of old bush vines he’s determined to keep in the family.

Guided by organic, regenerative, and dry-farming practices, Bernhard works tirelessly to protect these historic vines, ensuring they are not lost to high-yielding replacements. His devotion is both practical and deeply personal—an act of preservation for his heritage and for South Africa’s viticultural future.

Through Scions of Sinai, which he founded in 2017, Bernhard channels that story of loss, resilience, and renewal into wines that speak of soil, skin, and soul—grounded in the past, expressive in the present, and vital to the generations to come.

A Land Between Mountain and Sea

The family’s vineyard lies within the Coastal Region of South Africa, the birthplace of the country’s wine industry and home to its most iconic appellations—Stellenbosch, Constantia, and Paarl among them. The influence of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Helderberg Mountain shapes a terroir defined by tension and contrast.

Cool maritime breezes temper the summer heat, preserving acidity and structure, while decomposed granite soils lend a mineral, tactile precision. It’s a place where every vintage carries the imprint of both sun and sea—a landscape that naturally gives rise to wines of texture and vitality.

The Influence of Flor

What makes Tekstur truly singular is not only where it’s grown, but how it’s aged. Taking inspiration from Jerez in southern Spain, Bernhard employs a traditional flor-aging technique made possible by his cellar’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean.

In this method, a natural layer of yeast—called flor—forms on the surface of the wine as it rests in barrel. This delicate veil protects the wine from oxidation and subtly shapes its texture and aromatic profile. Rather than imparting the nutty, oxidative notes associated with Sherry, the flor here brings a gentle salinity and freshness, enhancing the wine’s tactile quality and vivid sense of place.

Flor aging is only possible near the sea, where humidity sustains that living layer. In Tekstur, it’s a quiet influence—one that bridges the coastal environment of False Bay with the wine’s natural structure, adding an extra dimension of vitality and depth.

In the Glass

A blend of 51% Chenin Blanc (planted in 1980 on the Bredell family vineyard on Sinai Hill in Helderberg, Stellenbosch) and 49% Grenache Blanc (planted in the 2000s in Voor-Paardeberg, Paarl), Tekstur was fermented on native yeast in stainless steel with 20 days of skin contact, then raised under flor in neutral French oak for eight months. It was bottled unfiltered and unfined.

Tasting note: It pours a golden-orange hue, with aromas of apricot marmalade, peach, spiced chamomile, Meyer lemon curd, and a hint of bruised apple. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, with bright acidity and fine, tea-like tannins that shape its appealing texture. Flavors of dried apricot, peach, quince, and subtle citrus zest mingle with a delicate saline minerality, leading to a very satisfying finish.12% abv| 92pts

Note: Since I purchased this wine sometime ago, this vintage is no longer available. However the 2023, and 2024 vintages (SRP – $39.99) are available via importer Culture Wine.

At the Table

As with so many skin-contact whites, Tekstur comes alive with food. One night, it was a natural companion to oven-roasted chicken shawarma, the wine’s gentle tannin and spice harmonizing with the dish’s caramelized edges and warm seasoning. The next, it met the briny richness of a sardine pan bagnat, where its salinity and lift cut perfectly through the oil and herbs.

That’s the quiet strength of wines like this—they adapt, evolve, and elevate whatever’s on the table. The textural grip of the skins and the savory depth from flor make Tekstur as comfortable with spice and smoke as with sea and salt.

Final Thoughts

The 2022 Tekstur bridges land and sea, history and renewal. It’s more than a wine of texture—it’s a living reflection of soil, skin, and soul.