France is home to some of the world’s most celebrated grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir often take center stage. Yet, hidden in the country’s lesser-known regions are grapes with equally rich histories and distinctive personalities, waiting to be rediscovered. This month, the French #Winophiles dive into the “Forgotten Grapes of France,” shining a light on one such overlooked gem: Poulsard (or as it’s locally known, Ploussard), the delicate, light-bodied red grape of the Jura region.
While it may not have the global fame principle grape varieties of Bordeaux, Burgundy, or Rhône, Poulsard is an integral part of Jura’s winemaking heritage, prized for its ethereal color, aromatic complexity, and food-friendly nature.
I’m showcasing the 2022 Domaine Dugois ‘La Sombarde’, a beautifully crafted expression of this relatively rare indigenous variety from the Arbois appellation within the Jura AOC.
Join me as I explore the Jura region, the story behind Poulsard, the rich winemaking tradition of Domaine Dugois, and why this bottle is a must-try for any adventurous wine lover.
The Jura Region of France
Nestled between Burgundy and Switzerland in eastern France, the Jura wine region is one of the country’s most historic appellations. Recognized as one of the first six Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1936, Jura is celebrated for its distinctive terroir—rich in marl, clay, and limestone—creating ideal conditions for its five authorized grape varieties. These include three indigenous gems—Poulsard, Savagnin, and Trousseau—alongside the more widely known Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which also thrive in nearby Burgundy and Champagne.
The region is divided into four principal appellations, each contributing to the Jura’s remarkable diversity:
- Arbois – The most prolific appellation, producing around 70% of Jura’s wines. Known for its expressive reds, particularly Poulsard, as well as distinctive whites and the legendary Vin Jaune.
- Côtes du Jura – A broad appellation covering the entire region, allowing winemakers to showcase a variety of styles, from oxidative whites to sparkling Crémant du Jura.
- Château-Chalon – The prestigious home of Vin Jaune, an age-worthy wine made from the Savagnin grape.
- L’Étoile – A tiny appellation specializing in elegant whites, particularly Chardonnay and Savagnin, often with Jura’s signature oxidative character.
Arbois: The Trailblazing Heart of Jura
Arbois boasts a cool continental climate with significant seasonal temperature variations. This, combined with traditional winemaking practices, contributes to the vibrant acidity and freshness characteristic of Jura wines. The name “Arbois” is derived from the Celtic words ar (fertile) and bos (land), reflecting its long history as a prime grape-growing area. The region is also linked to Louis Pasteur, who conducted groundbreaking research on fermentation here.
The Poulsard Grape: A Jura Treasure
Poulsard is a light-skinned red grape native to Jura, predominantly grown in the Arbois and Côtes du Jura appellations. Dating back centuries, it thrives in Jura’s marl and limestone soils.
Characteristics of Poulsard Wines
- Appearance: Pale, translucent red, often resembling a rosé or a very light red.
- Aroma & Flavor: Red berries (strawberries, cranberries), dried flowers, earth, and spices, with subtle smoky or gamey notes developing with age.
- Structure: Light-bodied with low tannins and bright acidity, making it refreshing and versatile at the table.
A Versatile Food Pairing Wine
Poulsard is often used in still red wines but also appears in sparkling Crémant du Jura and rosé styles. Its low tannins and high aromatics make it incredibly food-friendly. It pairs beautifully with:
- Charcuterie
- Jura cheeses like Comté and Morbier
- Pâtés and pork dishes
- A classic Jura fondue
Cultural and Historical Significance
Poulsard is deeply rooted in Jura’s winemaking traditions and reflects the region’s dedication to preserving its native grape varieties. Despite its historic importance, Poulsard’s cultivation remains limited, making it a cherished yet underappreciated variety in the global wine market.
In recent years, Poulsard has gained recognition among wine enthusiasts and sommeliers seeking unique, terroir-driven wines. Wines like the 2022 Domaine Dugois “La Sombarde” highlight the variety’s potential to produce elegant, expressive, and historically rich wines that tell the story of Jura’s heritage.
Domaine Dugois
In 1973, Daniel Dugois planted the seeds of what would become Domaine Dugois, acquiring two hectares of vineyards and a cellar-equipped house in his birthplace, Les Arsures—a village at the heart of the Jura wine region. Initially, his grapes were sold to Henri Maire, one of Jura’s most influential producers. But Daniel had bigger aspirations.
By 1982, he vinified his first harvest in his own cellar—a bold step that immediately paid off. His debut Chardonnay earned a Gold Medal at the Jura Wine Contest, signaling the arrival of a serious winemaker. From that moment on, Daniel and his wife, Monique, dedicated themselves to crafting wines of exceptional quality, earning acclaim in competitions and guidebooks alike.
In 2003, their son Philippe returned to the estate, bringing fresh energy and a deep respect for tradition. A decade later, in 2013, he officially took the reins, continuing the family’s pursuit of excellence.
2022 Domaine Dugois ‘La Sombarde
The Terroir & Winemaking
Domaine Dugois’ Poulsard vines flourish in red clay over red marl, a soil type that imparts elegance to the wines. The grapes are hand-harvested and undergo native yeast fermentation, preserving purity of fruit. Aging in neutral oak for eight months softens tannins and enhances complexity.
Tasting Note:
Pale ruby with ripe strawberry, red cherry, red currant damp earth and warm spice aromas. On the palate, it’s light -bodied and very fresh with very fine-grained tannins with strawberry, red currant, and a hint of red cherry with an appealing thread of savory and warm spice. 13% abv. Hmmm…red fruited with notes of earth and spice? This wine brings to mind Pinot Noir for me. Very good value at $19.99!
We enjoyed this wine over two evenings, and its versatility truly shined. The first night, it was a perfect match for a hearty pasta with smoked kielbasa, enhancing the dish with its bright acidity and delicate spice. The following evening, it seamlessly complemented our appetizers of wild mushroom pâté and Emmental cheese, proving to be just as delightful with lighter, savory bites.
Why Poulsard Deserves a Place on Your Table
Jura’s Poulsard may be a hidden gem, but its delicate elegance and incredible versatility make it a wine worth seeking out. Whether you’re a seasoned wine explorer or simply looking to expand your palate, this 2022 Domaine Dugois ‘La Sombarde’ offers a captivating taste of Jura’s winemaking heritage at an exceptional value.
I’d love to hear your thoughts—have you tried Poulsard before? What’s your favorite “forgotten grape” discovery? Drop a comment below or share your experience on social media using #Winophiles. And if you haven’t yet explored the wines of Jura, now’s the perfect time to start! As much as I adore Sherry, I have yet to experience the magic of Vin Jaune—a discovery I’m eager to make!
You might also enjoy:
The thing we love about wine is the constant learning! A new variety & wine for us so thanks on both counts. I’m not sure if I’ll be able to find any up here but definitely worth the hunt by the sounds of it.