Exploring the Roots of Georgian Reds: Saperavi and Beyond

As a curious wine lover, I’m always seeking out unique wines from regions I’ve yet to explore. My first taste of Georgian wine came at the 2023 World Amphora Day event at Rocim in Alentejo, Portugal. There, I sampled a qvevri-fermented wine, which left a lasting impression with its earthy complexity and historical significance. That experience sparked my interest in learning more about Georgia, the birthplace of winemaking, and its rich diversity of indigenous grape varieties. Recently, I had the chance to sample three Georgian red wines that highlighted the country’s unique terroir and traditions.

Georgia: The Cradle of Wine

Georgia’s winemaking legacy spans 8,000 years, earning it the title “the cradle of wine.” This small country, situated at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, boasts a winemaking culture as diverse as its landscapes. The Kakheti region, Georgia’s primary wine-producing area, is a sun-drenched valley known for nurturing Saperavi, the country’s flagship red grape. In contrast, regions like Racha-Lechkhumi in the northwest enjoy cooler, wetter climates ideal for growing grapes like Aleksandrouli and Dzelshavi.

Georgia’s primary grape-growing regions are nestled in diverse microclimates influenced by the Caucasus Mountains to the north and the Black Sea to the west. Kakheti, the most prominent region, is known for its sunny, dry valleys ideal for ripening Saperavi, Georgia’s most famous red grape. Other regions, like Racha-Lechkhumi in the northwest, offer cooler, wetter conditions, perfect for growing grapes like Aleksandrouli and Dzelshavi. The combination of fertile soils, ancient winemaking traditions, and a climate that balances warm summers with cool mountain breezes makes Georgia’s terroir truly one of a kind.

Adding to Georgia’s mystique is its ancient qvevri tradition—an 8,000-year-old method of fermenting and aging wine in large, earthen vessels buried underground. Recognized by UNESCO as part of Georgia’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, qvevri winemaking imparts wines with a distinctive textural depth and earthy elegance. My first taste of qvevri wine left me intrigued, and though the three wines I sampled were crafted using modern techniques, they carried echoes of Georgia’s deep-rooted traditions.

The Grapes Varieties:

Saperavi

Saperavi, Georgia’s most-planted red grape, accounts for 33% of the country’s wine production. Renowned for its naturally high acidity and robust tannins, this versatile variety is an exciting alternative to more familiar reds. Saperavi wines deliver bold notes of ripe blackberry, plum, and a touch of spice, appealing to fans of Malbec for its richness or Syrah for its savory complexity.

Aleksandrouli and Dzelshavi

Aleksandrouli thrives in the cooler, wetter climate of Racha-Lechkhumi. This grape brings light, aromatic charm with red fruit and soft tannins, while its blending partner, Dzelshavi, adds vibrant acidity and a fresh, approachable character. Together, they create wines that balance elegance and liveliness, reminiscent of a Beaujolais Cru or a refined Pinot Noir.

The Wines

Disclosure: Disclosure: Wines were provided as a media samples. No other compensation was received. All opinions are mine.

2022 Villa Chven Aleksandrouli-Dzelshavi

Medium garnet in color, this blend of 75% Aleksandrouli and 25% Dzelshavi bursts with aromas of blueberry compote, black cherry, pomegranate, cedar, and white pepper. On the palate, it’s light-bodied with juicy acidity and firm tannins, delivering flavors of ripe blueberry, black cherry, and subtle pomegranate layered with a hint of spice. The finish is medium, leaving an impression of finesse and freshness. A delicate wine that’s a wonderful choice for those who love elegant reds like Pinot Noir or Cru Beaujolais. 14% ABV | SRP – $34| 87 pts

2021 Wine Alphabet Saperavi

Deep garnet hues announce this bold wine, with aromas of blackberry, plum, blueberry sauce, and smoked meat. The palate offers a medium-bodied experience with velvety tannins and lively acidity, featuring lush flavors of blackberry, plum, cacao, and a touch of vanilla. The wine’s medium-plus finish showcases the balance of Saperavi’s power and refinement, evoking comparisons to a polished Malbec with a dash of Syrah’s savory edge. 14.5% ABV | SRP – $25 |89 pts

2018 Chelti Estate Winery Saperavi

This medium-garnet wine greets you with aromas of plum skin, blackberry, dried herbs, damp clay, and a hint of florals. On the palate, it’s light-bodied yet vibrant, with bright acidity and grainy tannins supporting flavors of blackberry, plum sauce, black cherry, and dried herbs. The medium finish carries a rustic charm, a testament to the wine’s three years of aging following a harvest marked by scarce yields. 14.5% ABV |SRP – $25| 88pts. This wine brought to mind wines crafted from Touriga Nacional, one of Portugal’s most important grapes.

Conclusion

These wines from Georgia offered more than just a taste—they were a journey through the country’s ancient winemaking heritage and its dynamic, evolving expression. Saperavi stood out with its bold flavors and versatility, while the Aleksandrouli-Dzelshavi blend charmed with its fresh, elegant style.

For adventurous wine lovers, Georgian wines are a must-explore. Whether you’re drawn to robust, age-worthy reds or lighter, aromatic options, these wines offer something truly special. More than a glimpse into the past, they’re a celebration of Georgia’s enduring place at the heart of winemaking history.

2 Comments Add yours

  1. Allison Wallace says:

    We definitely share your curiosity but are somewhat embarrassed to say we haven’t had any wine from Georgia…yet!

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      You know what we say “So many wines, so little time”. I too have a substantial list of wine regions I’ve not tasted. In fact. Until I received some samples from Finger Lakes, i’d never tried the wines!

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