This month the Italian Food Wine and Travel group is taking a virtual trip to Sicily. Our host this month is Camilla of Culinary Cam. You may read her invitation post here.
Sicily – An Overview:
Sicily has a rich viticultural heritage. Sicilians have been making wine since before Greeks conquered the island in 750 B.C. It is the largest island in the Mediterranean and has the most vineyards in Italy.
Much of its recent wine history has been defined by two things: fortified Marsala (a boom-and-bust cycle whose heyday was arguably the 1800s) and cheap blending wine sold to various regions of Italy and elsewhere in Europe. (Source)
But in the last 30 years the wine industry in Sicily has gone through a transformation – from producing bulk wines mostly through cooperatives in the 60’s, to now being considered one of the most exciting wine regions in Europe!
A focus on quality over quantity, native grapes and a variety of microclimates is reinvigorating this rugged island at the center of Italian winemaking. – Wine Enthusiast
With roughly 300 days of abundant sunshine per year, it is a grape grower’s paradise. Add temperate Mediterranean influences, and island winds to protect against frost and mildew, which makes organic farming easier. Finally with almost 20 native grape varieties, there is plenty of biodiversity.
Gastronomically speaking, Sicily manifests a plethora of diverse culinary influences, but at its core, Sicily’s ancient cuisine relies on a few key home-grown ingredients: shellfish and citrus, tuna and swordfish, pistachios, almonds and ricotta.
In My Glass – 2017 Aeris Etna Bianco Superiore
Aeris (air or climate in Latin)is a newish label produced Rhys Vineyards owner Kevin Harvey.
Rhys crafts cool climate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from rocky soils in mountainous, cool, coastal climate zones in the Santa Cruz Mountains and Anderson Valley.
The Aeris brand is the result of Harvey’s visit to Sicily where he fell in love with the two Sicilian grape varieties. More specifically Carricante (which many believe to be one of Italy’s greatest white grapes) grown high on the cool eastern slope of Sicily’s volcano, Mt Etna, and and 100 y.o. Nerello Mascalese grapes from the northern slope of Mt Etna.
It is focused on wines made from the Italian grapes Nebbiolo, Carricante and Nerello Mascalese.
They have vineyards in both Italy and California. The Sicilian vineyards are located on the best sites on the island’s volcano Mt. Etna, while their California vineyard (planted with imported grapevines) called Centennial Mountain is situated on a remote mountain west of Lake Sonoma, atop California’s costal range. That vineyard was planted in 2012, and they are the first winery in California plant Carricante, which is believed by many to be among Italy’s greatest grapes.
Until the vineyards planted in Sicily sufficiently mature they work with local legend Salvo Foti and import old vine Carricante and Nerello Mascalese wines.
We purchased this bottle last year when we visited the Aeris tasting room in Healdsburg. It was a great opportunity to taste the wines crafted in Sicily, along side one from California made from the same grape variety!
Want to know more about Aeris? The project has been written about my Eric Asimov of the NY Times, as well as Esther Mobley of the San Francisco Chronicle.
Fruit for this wine was sourced from organically farmed 80 year old vines in Milo on the eastern slope of Mt. Etna There, it is the exclusive source of Etna Bianco Superiore, which is analogous Burgundy’s “Grand Cru” designation.
Tasting Note: Pale yellow with apple, lemon peel, honeycomb, wet stone, dried herb, almond, and a hint of sea breeze aromas On the palate it’s medium-bodied with high acidity, and lovely texture with ripe green and yellow apple, quince paste, lemon, and wet stone flavors accented with a very appealing salinity. Long finish. 100% Carricante. 12.2% abv 91pts
On My Plate
This month’s theme had me day dreaming of sitting on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea in a small family run restaurant with access to the freshest seafood. Inspired by the day dream, I found a Seafood Pasta with Shrimp and Scallops (and Garlic!) recipe that I thought would be perfect with the wine.
And you know what? I was right!
Looking for more perfect Sicilian wine and food pairings? I invite you to read my fellow #ItalianFWT post for more inspiration!
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Wow, I’m so delighted you used my recipe, and it looks fabulous! Wine looks perfect with it, as well! Grazie mille, Martin!
My pleasure Christina. A great recipe that’ll be a favorite at our table!
Love it! Thanks again! Now following on Twitter 🙂
Thanks for joining in the event. What a great wine and pairing. I can’t wait to get my hands on a bottle…and to try your recipe. Cin cin, Martin!
Thanks Cam. If you do snag a bottle of this wine be sure to let it warm up a bit to show it’s best. I’m envious of you travels to Sicily and I hope visit Sicily one of these days!
Great advice. I will remember that.
So glad to have you join us Martin. Carricante in California? I love learning about this! Looks great!
Californian Carricante – whoa! Will be eager to hear how the US wine compares to the Sicilian. Etna Bianco is a fave of mine and looks amazing with that spaghetti/seafood dish.
What an interesting project for Aeris! I look forward to a time when you can taste those Carricante’s side by side!
We’ve been to Sicily once, sadly pre-AdVINEtures but loved the region and we’re seeing more of its wines where we are. An inspiring reminder to have one soon…Saluti!
Your daydreaming … small family restaurant … plus all the history and Carricante make me dream too. We’re getting there this autumn and looking forward to a deep dive into Carricante and other grapes. Very cool Kevin Harvey set up this partnership in Sicily so you can enjoy these wines!
Sounds like a great wine I like the way the dish evokes those good memories from Italy!
Looks like a fabulous pairing, Martin. I visited Salvo Foti in Sicily last October so, under his guidance, I’m sure this wine is amazing!! Thanks for sharing!
What a fun tasting comparing the grapes from two different locales. Your pasta sounds scrumptious.
Martin – Thank you for introducing us to this interesting project. I had no idea someone was growing Carricante in the US. I love this variety and agree it is one of Italy’s finest whites. You dish sounds divine and your description of Sicily and all it has to offer perfect. Cheers, Susannah
It’s a very cool project. And their tasting room in Healdsburg is in a great location and offers a great side-by-side opportunity to taste both Carricante and Nerello Mascalese from California and Italy.