The Best of California Grenache: 2013 San Francisco Family Winemakers Tasting

I attended the 23nd annual Family Winemakers of California tasting, held in San Francisco August 17th and 18th.  The tasting was open to both trade/media and the public on Saturday, and was trade/media only on Sunday.   The event was held at the Festival Pavilion at Fort Mason in San Francisco.

The Family Winemakers of California (“FWC”) is the trade advocate for California’s “small family” wineries (although behemoth wineries like Kendall Jackson and Gallo are also considered family wineries most are in fact smaller family run wineries ). And a huge tasting like this brings in trade, media, and wine lovers from across the country.

It’s also the single largest tasting of California wines in the world!

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It’s my favorite big event because it’s a chance to taste so many different types and styles of wines from throughout California, from so many producers, large and small, old and new…

FWC Crowd

If there ever was a time the vinous cliché “So many wines, so little time” is true, it’s at a huge event like this.  There were 220 wineries pouring, so I needed a plan to maximize the three hours I set aside for tasting.

I decided to do a deep dive on Grenache, or more specifically Grenache Noir!

No Grenache blends….just wine labeled as Grenache (meaning they are composed of at least 75% Grenache)

FWC is a very well-organized event, with a great program.  The program indicated there were 20 wineries pouring Grenache.  However, as is typically the case with big tastings like this, when the program is finalized weeks before the event, there are often changes.  Such was the case with many of the wineries denoted as pouring Grenache.  I was told their Grenache was sold out, that it was a blend, or they weren’t pouring on the day I went.  So, things were hit and miss until I came across this guy…

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Kaena Wine Company owner/winemaker Mikael Sigouin

When I asked MIkael (who also makes wine for Beckmen Vineyards) to try his Grenache, he replied “Which one? I have four”

Music to my ears!

All told I ended up only tasting 16 wines.  My favorites, which I rated 90+ points, were from Dashe Cellars, Kaena Wine Company, Law Estate Wines, Pierce Ranch Vineyards and Rob Murray Vineyards.

My detailed tasting notes follow:

  • 2009 Frick Winery Grenache Conley Vineyard – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley – Ruby color with cherry, sweet spice and a hint of pepper aromas. On the palate it’s medium-bodied with focused cherry, raspberry and a hint of black currant flavors. (88 pts.)
  • 2010 Frog’s Tooth Grenache – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County – Ruby red with fresh strawberry, and pepper aromas. On the palate, it’s light-bodied and tart with strawberry, raspberry and pepper flavors. (87 pts.)
  • 2010 Bella Grace Grenache – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
    Cherry red color with strawberry, cherry and peppery aromas. On the palate, its approaches medium bodied with soft, tart cherry,and spice flavors (87 pts.)
  • 2012 Dashe Cellars Grenache Les Enfants Terribles – USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley – Ruby color with appealing strawberry, raspberry, and spice aromas. It’s light-bodied Beaujolais style that’s energetic, with a smooth texture supported by light tannins. It shows strawberry, raspberry and spice flavors with hints of mineral and red currant flavors. Satisfying and lingering finish. (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Fenestra Grenache – USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Livermore Valley – Medium cherry red color with black cherry, spice and a hint of game aromas. On the palate, its medium-bodied with cherry, raspberry and pepper flavors. (87 pts.)
  • 2010 Lava Cap Grenache Estate Bottled – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, El Dorado County – Light ruby-red color with attractive wild strawberry and floral aromas. On the palate, it’s light-bodied and lively with strawberry, sweet spice, mineral and a hint of pepper flavors. Medium finish. Aged in small French oak barrels for 14 months. (88 pts.)

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  • 2010 Kaena Grenache – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
    Garnet color with appealing fresh cherry, sweet spice and white pepper aromas. On the palate it approaches medium-bodied, with medium acidity, and tart cherry, raspberry and spiced vanilla flavors. Fruit is sourced from four vineyard sources throughout the Santa Ynez Valley consisting of: Estelle Vineyard in the Happy Canyon area, Fox Family Vineyard in Los Olivos, Tierra Alta Vineyard in Ballard Canyon and Larner Vineyard also in Ballard Canyon. The wine was aged for 22 months in neutral French Oak. The wine is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre (89 pts.)
  • 2011 Kaena Grenache Vie Caprice – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley – Medium dark ruby color with raspberry, spicy white pepper, and a hint of floral aromas. On the palate, it’s light-bodied, with lively acidity and tangy raspberry, cherry flavors and a satisfying finish. (89 pts.)
  • 2010 Kaena Grenache Tierra Alta Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley – Medium ruby-red color with billowing red fruit, baking spice, and a hint of roast game aromas. On the palate, it approaches medium-bodied with silky, raspberry, strawberry, and spice flavors. Medium-long finish (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Kaena Grenache Larner Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley – Cherry red color with strawberry, cherry and peppery aromas. On the palate, it’s between light and medium-bodied with wonderful acidity, and tangy raspberry, and baked cherry flavors. (88 pts.)

Law Estate 10 Grenache

  • 2010 Law Estate Wines Beguiling – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles – Exhibits raspberry, strawberry, spice and a hint of floral aromas. On the palate, its between light and medium-bodied, and balanced with surprising acidity and raspberry, strawberry, spice and mineral flavors. Lengthy finish. 94% Grenache, 6% Syrah (91 pts.)
  • 2010 Lido Bay Grenache Bitch Tongue – USA, California, Sierra Foothills, Calaveras County – Ruby color with abundant red fruit and spice aromas. On the palate, its ample with medium acidity, and raspberry, strawberry, cherry and spice flavors. 90% Grenache, 10% Tempranillo. Barrel aged in 20% new French oak (89 pts.)
  • 2011 Powell Mountain Cellars Grenache – USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles – Medium ruby color with cherry, white pepper and a hint of earth aromas. On the palate it approaches medium-bodied with raspberry, and spiced vanilla flavors. (86 pts.)
  • 2011 Pierce Ranch Garnacha – USA, California, Central Coast, San Antonio Valley – Medium ruby color with generous strawberry, cherry and spice aromas. On the palate it’s approaches medium-bodied, and fresh with appealing wild strawberry, cherry and spice flavors on a smooth lengthy finish. Made from Spanish Garnacha clone (90 pts.)
  • 2009 Paradise View Cuvée Arlequin – USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast – Dark ruby color with fruity cherry, and baking spice aromas. On the palate, it’s between light and medium-bodied with raspberry cherry and spice flavors. Medium finish. 98% Grenache/2% Syrah (87 pts.)
  • 2010 Rob Murray Amor Fati Wine Grenache Murmur Vineyard – USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley – Ruby color with perfumed red fruit, damp earth, and spicy pepper aromas. On the palate, it medium-bodied, and well-balanced with soft tannins. It’s exhibits raspberry, red currant, strawberry, mineral and spice flavors. Aged 16 months 100 neutral French Oak. (90 pts.)

Hawk and Horse Block 9

After getting through the available Grenache relatively quickly, it was time for “Taster’s Choice…Um..where I basically walk around and taste whatever strikes my fancy.

I tasted another 15 to 20 wines.  My favorites, which I rated 90+ points were:

  • 2007 5 Bridges
  • 2009 Hawk and Horse Block Three Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2010 Lagier-Merideth Chester’s Anvil Malbec
  • 2011 Lagier-Meredith Tribidrag
  • 2009 Smith Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2007 Smith Madrone Reserve Cabernet Cooks Flat

I certainly enjoyed by Adventure in Grenache.  California’s winemakers, especially from the Central Coast, are making some wonderful Grenache.  The most distinguished  are well-balanced with compelling aromas, bright red fruits, and a hint of spiciness. Stylistically, most we’re were dense, but I’m seeing more and more of the lighter-bodied, lower alcohol examples too.

7 Comments

  1. Dan Ruiz says:

    Mikael has a great thing going on at Kaena Wines…

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      Thanks for dropping by Dan! Agreed…funny thing is we tasted the Kaena Wines a few years ago while down at the Santa Barbara Wine Festival. But I didn’t put the name of the winery and the face together until I say him at the Family Winemakers event! Cheers!

  2. Steve Havill says:

    Martin,

    Thanks for the write up of the 2010 BellaGrace Grenache – this past year it has developed into such a beautiful wine. I am sorry we never saw this post!

    1. Martin D. Redmond says:

      You’re welcome Steve! Will you be pouring at this year’s RR event?

      1. Steve says:

        I am not positive, but I would like to invite you for a tasting at our location if you are in the area soon?

Comments are closed.